Wednesday October 22
Whatever happened to Denmark?
I look around the souvenir shop at Garfield's Book Company at Pacific Lutheran University. I'm in Tacoma, Washington, about thirty miles south of Seattle. And I'm looking at hundreds of Norwegian and Swedish flags - something that's always painful for a Dane. There's an onslaught of Christmas decorations plus an obscene amount of Norwegian kitch that would make Ola Nordmann proud.
But what happened to Denmark? The only thing I see in the shop is a few Danish flags. Were we thrown out of Scandinavia? Is it because we don't have any mountains? Well, our lack of mountains bothers me as well, but flat is beautiful when you have sore hamstrings.
My host is Norwegian, too and a wonderful one at that. Troy Storfjell has invited me to talk about The Tsar's Dwarf. His small class is at my reading. They have studied the book and Troy claims everybody loves it. Always trust a Norwegian who praises your book. Those people know a good novel when they see one!
I start babbling at 6 pm.
Attendance is pretty good at Garfield Book Company, at least for a small time writer as myself. Let's face it, I'm not Knut Hamsun. I'm not even James Frey, so 20 people are definitely a nice crowd for me on this beautiful evening.
Afterwards, Troy, a colleague of his, and I go out for gnocchi. Later, Troy drives me back to my excellent hotel overlooking the beautiful Puget sound. My room is so great that I refuse to go to sleep. I feel like King of Tacoma. That would actually be a good title for a novel.
Thursday October 23.
I'm sitting on the plane to Minneapolis. Next to me is a dentist looking at teeth on his computer. Huge pictures of white teeth flash in front of my eyes, followed by red gums and cavities the size of potholes. I find it obscene. Couldn't the man look at porno instead? That's a much more healthy activity. I hate pictures of teeth, especially when I'm flying over the Rockies. I feel like screaming, why don't you get a life instead of looking at gums from people you don't even know?
In Minneapolis I'm picked up by Erik Bruhn, the ex-president of the Danish-American center. He drives me to Danbo, the center of everything Danish in the Twin Cities. The center has graciously invited me to stay there the four days I'm in town.
It's an incredible place surrounded by squirrels and the Mississippi. I'm greeted by Bing & Grøndahl plates in the elevator, Danish paintings of village churches in the hallway, and a statue of The Little Mermaid in my bedroom. There's even a picture of Queen Margrethe and her French sidekick from 1972. Oh yes, those were the days when Denmark was Danish - when ducklings crossed the street without being maimed by foreigners.
Yes, it's true, you Danish patriots out there. Today our country has changed. Now we're viciously being accused of being the happiest nation on earth - a filthy lie if I ever heard one. I mean, have you ever been to Bogense in January? Happy, who?
No, forgive me, Danes are not happy. We're just grateful we weren't born in Alabama.
Friday October 23
I'm at University of Minnesota to talk to a class called Introduction to Scandinavia. Fellow Dane Søren Vestergaard Riis has invited me. 34 freshmen are sitting in front of me listening like thieves. Students are nice in Minnesota. They don't yawn much, they laugh at your jokes, and they only storm out of class when you've promised not to give them a D.
Later in the day, I meet up with a local novelist, Sarah Stonich. We know each other from a writer's colony in New York state, Ledig House. Sarah wrote a very successful novel, These Granite Islands about nine years ago. It was sold to thirteen countries. It's great seeing her again. We reminisce about old times at Ledig House with Somalian novelist Nuruddin Farah and Canadian poet Sarah Venart. And let's not forget the deers on the lawn. The great Italian food. And hey, we even did a bit of writing.
Sarah drives me around the Twin Cities swearing at the other drivers in that lovely Minnesotan way of hers. It's beautiful around the river and the lakes, but apart from that I'm not a big fan of Minneapolis. It's one big suburb like most American cities. However, I like the people here. Maybe it's because some are descendants of the "happiest" people on earth?
Saturday October 24
I gaze out at the audience at Magers & Quinn Booksellers, the finest independent book store in the Twin Cities.
It's easy done. Three people are waiting for me to start. I know it's to be expected but I'm a little disappointed. The lowest attendance I ever had was at the library in Varde, Denmark. Five people came, so now I'm looking at an all time low. What's wrong with you, Minneapolis? Just because it's 7 pm. on a Saturday evening, you don't want to listen to an obscure Danish novelist? Who needs dinner and Chardonnay, anyway?
However, ten minutes into my presentation, fourteen people have shown up, even a family from Omaha, Nebraska who came to see me. Well, maybe that wasn't the only reason they came. However, they did come from Omaha, Nebraska and that's an accomplishment in itself.
Sunday October 25
The weather has turned Danish. Rainy, windy, miserable - the kind of weather where you have two choices. Either you play Monopoly or you throw yourself under a truck.
At 3 pm. I'm doing my last reading here in Minneapolis, at Danbo, the Danish-American center where I'm staying. I love the place, it's kinky in a good way. Danbo is a piece of ancient Danish history. Every time I walk in, I start missing my grand mother. The furniture is like hers. Maybe they actually went to Lolland and stole it. The place reeks of æbleskiver (small Danish pancakes) and a deep love of the old country - a country that only exists in our imagination.
But don't get me wrong. I think it's great that the Danish Americans remember their roots. And I'm more than thrilled that they want to entertain scum like me. We Danes are a tolerant people after all.
In the living room I find a few Se & Hør magazines from 1989, and no less than 30 wet Scandinavians show up for my presentation. Afterwards we drink coffee and eat kringle. Hey, how more Danish can it get?
On my way out I kiss the Little Mermaid goodbye. It's important to be grateful for the small things in life ...



